Come northward many miles above Aberdeen, and then
strike towards the sea across the links which are
sand-tussocked desolations of charred heather and
wiry reeds, harbouring grouse to whirr up alarmingly
sideways from under-foot, and rabbits so lazy that
they will hardly scuttle their snow-white little tail-flags
from the path. Add a choir of larks and a thin high
wind piping over the dunes or thrumming down the harsh
stems of heather.
They are three miles wide, these
links, and ever so desolate, till they end abruptly
in a rough field whose far side is set on edge with
a broken line of cottages. Behind their roofs seems
to be pure sky, but when you near them it becomes
sea - for the cottages have [been] built round all
the crest of the grassy sea-cliff and down it too,
cunningly wedging their places into its face wherever
there was a flat of land as wide as two rooms. Almost
to the beach the cottages fall. Beach, did I say?
It is a creek of sand, cemented along one side in
a grey quay-wall from which and from the opposing
rocks up run the grass-grown cliffs in heart-comforting
bastions to the houses fringed against the sky.
The creek's a fishing port. You could find room
to play a game of tennis in it, perhaps, if the
tide went dry. So there are no bigger boats than
dinghies and no room for any: nor heart for any
with the jaws of greycold reefs champing white seas
outside, all day and night.
Imagine whole systems of slate-like
slabby rocks, flung flatwise and acres square, thrusting
out into the maddened North Sea which heaves and
foams over them in deafening surges. The North-Easter,
full of rain and so misted that our smarting eyes
can peer only two or three hundred yards into it,
lifting the waves bodily to the air and smashing
them upon the rocks. There is such sound and movement
out there in the haze that our eyes keep staring
into its blindness to see the white walls rolling
in. The concealed sun makes all white things half-luminous,
so that the gulls become silvered whenever they
dip suddenly to turn a knife-edged cartwheel in
the spray: and the thunder of the seas enforces
a deafened silence on all other things, so that
we feel as much as see the energy let loose. Each
big wave makes the air quiver and sends a shading
reverberation across the shore about our bodies.
That is the fighting of the sea
against the land; and the sea's casualties have
filled the port, around the elbow that the jetty
makes. There the water is stifled and heaves sickly
under a mat of sea-suds one foot thick. You know
the creamed and bubbly foam that blows up a beach
when the wind rises and the sea, together? Well,
that flocculent stuff is all impounded in our bay,
filling it so full that black water and jetty and
steps and rocks and beach are all invisible, buried
under it like a corpse in a blanket.
'Curse the fellow and his seascape,
You are saving. Am I paid to read his manuscript?
Peace, Mrs Doubleday will take it away and burn
it, so soon as you roar in anger.
What are we doing here. Nothing
practically. There are 3 of us - Jimmy who used
to work Canada but came home in 1914 and was a gunner
for four years in France: now he jobs horses in
Aberdeen: Jock, the roughest diamond of our Tank
Corps hut in 1923, - and me. We have Mrs Ross' cottage
lent to us and reluctantly in turn sweep its floor
and fetch the water and coal- For meals thrice a
day we spread our coats to the wind and fly to the
cliff-top, where the Mrs Baker-and-Butcher feeds
us in her parlour. Then heavy inside, we slide down
hill to the cottage again in the cove: for ours
is the nearest hovel to the high-tide mark. That
is good in fair weather and exciting today. Great
flocks of surf beat tattoos on the roof till the
tide turned.
But what do we do? Why nothing,
as I said. Jimmy has his horse to groom and feed
and exercise. Sometimes we do the last for him.
Jock fishes: boys bring him mussels and he waves
a pole from the quay at the wild wild waves. Once
up came a codling from the yeasty deep, the poor
orphan taking pity on him. He brought it us in silent
manly pride, and we made him clean it. Scrape scrape
his knife went, like a man cleaning a flowerpot.
We helped him eat it, too.
Most of our food is fish, I remember.
There is a local industry, called sperling. Cut
open a round fish. Flatten it, dry him bone-white
for days on a rock of wire netting, smoke him, boil
him in milk. Not bad, tasting like dull veal. The
local people are lovers of sperling, though, and
taste more in them than I do. Then there are baby
soles, four-inch things too small for sale in the
city with the adult soles. They are fried and delicious.
Down with great soles henceforward.
The cottage has 3 rooms. Jock took
the middle one with big bed and fireplace. Ours
opens from it and are cold. So we make his our sitting
room, and have pushed the bed into the corner, farthest
from the fire where I sit and think all day, while
turning over the swimming suits to dry. Also I eat
pounds of peppermints (pandrops they call them:
Aberdeen and excellent) or read H.G.Wells History
in a dollar edition lately produced, as you may
have heard, by a young and pushing publisher in
the States. I wish I had a dozen copies to give
away: but only one ran the customs gauntlet to do
Cassells out of his English rights. Believe me,
it's a good book. 8/6d in England and a dollar in
the almighty-dear States.
I tried to get Heinemann's elephant
book –Novels today in Aberdeen but they had
it not. Distribution faulty, for Lady Eleanor Smith
and Strong are both first-class. The bookshop lady
tried to work off on me a thing called Angel Pavement,
also by Heinemann. She said everybody was buying
it. 'Not quite everybody', I protested politely.
'This very man, she said 'wrote Good Companions'.
'Dreary artificial sob-stuffed thing' I snorted,
having luckily read Good Companions. 'You are hard
to please' she grumbled, offering me the Boy's Book
of Colonel Lawrence at a reduction, seeing I was
in uniform and he now in the RAF I told her I knew
the fellow, and he was a wash-out: then I bought
a Daily Express and escaped the shop. Alas, for
I wanted to read Dewar Rides! Again.
Effendi, what folly makes me want
to talk rot to you when I hear you are ill? The
whole man is a gladiator: who demands tall talk'
Why babble when he is (temporarily) hurt? God knows.
Ask Mrs Doubleday to take the nasty thing away again.
Our teatime now. The winds have
stopped, but the waves increase. They are so big
that only two roll in to the minute now. I wish
you could hear the constancy and fresh repetition
of their thunder, and the sharpness and loneliness
of the gulls questing through the spume. The poor
gulls are hungry from the storm and beset our roof
for the food-scraps we throw away. They have the
saddest, most cold, disembodied voices in the world.
Evening now. I must go up the shop
for oil for the lamp. The shop is the post office
and I'll then send this off, before its length frightens
me and makes me burn it.
Au revoir, Effenim, soon, let's
hope.
T. E. S.
P.S. for Mrs. D-D - Make it London next summer too
and we will get to Kipling this time.
|